Argentina Gauchos, Cerros, y Vinos

I arrived in Salta, Argentina, on 15 March 2008. My landlord Nicolás, a thirty-something bachelor with prep school boy charm, picked me up from the airport in a dusty blue pickup truck and insisted on carrying my luggage. To break the ice on the 20 minute drive to the city center, I told him the story of how I was drenched by a 10-foot fountain that shot out of a bidet on my first day in Buenos Aires. He laughed, commented on my Spanish-sounding accent, and then sincerely explained to me the workings of the three knobs on a bidet. I made a mental note that joking about my cultural fumblings was the best way to receive a thorough how-to lesson. (I can now attest that this method never failed me.)

Arianna was already at the house and napping upstairs when I arrived. Like a proper bachelor, Nicolás’ cupboards and fridge were pretty scarcely populated, but the bread, crackers, jam, and coffee he offered tided me over happily. Later, after I was somewhat settled in, Nicolás took Arianna and I on a basic walking tour to see the plaza, the sunny, pink cathedral, the bank where he worked, the old monastery, and the hill that overlooks the city. Afterwards, his girlfriend Mercedes and her family introduced us to the tradition of afternoon tea (complete with a rich assortment of buttery crackers and pastries) at their mansion in a private, gated community outside of town. I remember being a bit groggy and dazed through it all, but grateful for the warm reception and eager generosity of our hosts. That night, after sending news of my safe arrival, I curled up early in my skinny twin bed and wished I had my own pillow, but the commotion and joy of Day One put me to fast, satisfying sleep.

So that was a quick summary of the first day of my ten-month South American sojourn, from March to December of 2008. This blog is where I am sharing with family, friends, and whomever else cares to read it more stories like this and some (hopefully) interesting details of my acts and escapades as a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant (ETA).